How to service a 2010 Boxxer Compression Damper?

Hey, not sure if anyone can be of help. I've picked up a set of 2010 boxxer teams with a gubbed compression damper. From what I can tell, the hi/lo speed compression adjusters don't seem to turn as they should. The forks don't have any oil in them at the moment though, so I can't be sure of what exactly is wrong with them, so only have to go on what the previous owner has told me, that the damper is fecked. I suppose there could be other problems with them aswell mind!

I was planning on forking out £200 on a new compression damper, but was just thinking I could try see about giving the gubbed one the once over. Trouble is, the sram technical manuals don't go into that sort of detail, so don't know where to start? So I'm just wondering if anyone has had any experience in servicing the compression damper, or maybe even getting a broken one working again?

In case anyone was wondering, I've removed the compression damper/rebound assembly from the right hand leg following the sram technical manual here http://www.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/boxxer_team_en_b1.pdf and also using the really helpful guide on the sdh home page here http://www.southerndownhill.com/reviews/fork/boxxer-team-2010-servicing.html!

Cheers for any help, borgia.

Edit: sorry, posted this in the wrong section !

Here's a nice picture full guide to a general service of the boxxers i wrote last year.
In regards to the damper, its a bit more involved and I wouldn't go there if you don't feel confident. Start off by removing the gold piston by removing the nut holding it on, then you can pull the shim stack, black preload rod and spring off. Now if you can identify where its being bunged up here and sort it, thats great, because the next step is a ball ache.
You need to prise the two c clips off that hold the detent bearings in place, remove the internal circlip thats under where the dials are and pull everything apart and clean it all up.
It should look something like:


Edit just saw you already linked my page
Let me know if you need any more help/pictures

Thanks for for the reply, much appreciated! Yeah, I linked to your guide because its real easy to follow!

I've managed to do everything you've said. However, there is a 3rd c clip between the two that hold the detent bearings in place. I assume I need to remove this aswell because as it stands the top cap doesn't seem to want to slide off from the blue rod?

With the compression damper out of the forks the lo-speed adjuster will turn freely, and click, but it will do it infinitely. Also, in the video below, she points to the opening with a screw that moves up and down when you adjust the low speed compression. This screw seems screwed fully in, so I can see through it, and it doesn't move up and down when I turn the low speed adjuster. Bad sign?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCTwgp1RwYE

Also, is there any way to tell if the rebound cartridge is working when it is removed from the fork?

Cheers again for any help

No worries.
Here's the other article i wrote before the boxxer one, at the bottom is a pic of the dual flow rebound head. There is a port orifice with a needle as with the compression, you should be able to see the needle move as you adjust one of the dials, apologies i can't remember which.
Been ages since i stripped the boxxer mico, can't quite remember what else you have to do to remove the blue inner tube

Sound, just read through that article. I can see the needle moving when I adjust the rebound, so hopefully the rebound damper is still working.

Hope this is ok, but I used one of your images to show what I mean.



The two yellow arrows point to the c clips that i've removed, and the red arrow points to the c clip still in place. Like I said, I'm not sure if this needs to come off or not. My dampers blue rod/top cap is in the position of the image on the right. Does the top cap slide or thread off the blue rod?

Sorry for all the questions!

If i recall, you need to remove the red clip and then the whole blue unit thread out the top. If you rotate the blue tube, you see the clip stopping it passing through the top cap?